Cucamelon plants (Melothria scabra) go by a lot of names – mouse melons, Mexican mini watermelons, Mexican sour gherkins, and pepquinos, to name a few. The name of this vine differs depending on the culture discussing it. Many of the plants that are indigenous to the area are known as mouse melons in English.
The cucamelon vine can grow up to 8 to 9 feet, and the seeds can germinate within 10 days of being planted in early spring. The leaves of the plant are approximately 1-3 inches wide and resemble those of a cucumber, with three or five lobes. They are rough with small hairs covering their surface. The vine produces both male and female flowers that look the same: yellow with five petals. The female flowers receive pollen from male flowers either from insects or the wind.
After the female flowers are pollinated in early summer, the fruits that form look like tiny watermelons. They mature and ripen in 60 to 75 days. As cucamelon matures, tuberous roots form. The seeds remain in the soil to return if conditions are warm enough in the area. They are a lovely annual in colder regions.
The only edible part from a cucamelon crop is the small fruit. Cucamelons taste like cucumbers with an extra tang. To get the best Mexican sour gherkins, pick them when they are light to rich green. When the berries turn purple, they are no longer edible and become a powerful laxative. If the blueberries are too dark, they are best used for medicine by the indigenous people in their native region.
Planting Cucamelons
Sow cucamelon seeds 9-12 inches apart 4-6 weeks before the anticipated last frost date in spring. You can grow cucamelons indoors or outdoors, starting with seeds in a warm area. You may transplant them outdoors after the last spring frost. To start Mexican miniature watermelons, you can direct seed them in your garden bed, raised bed, or container. It’s important to give plants plenty of space, and to provide them with a trellis. Growing cucamelons vertically helps you save space. Otherwise, the vine will sprawl out and take over. When you are choosing an area to plant, make sure the soil drains well and the area gets a lot of direct sunlight. If you want to grow your plants in a container, you will need a large, deep plastic, terra cotta, or clay pot. Several gallons is best.
Care
Sun and Temperature
Grow cucamelon in an area with full sun. Some afternoon shade is acceptable. Cucamelons can survive in both warm and hot weather as long as there is a water source nearby. Many gardeners wait until the last frost has passed to plant their gardens. Cucamelons grown in colder climates have a shorter growing season. The best temperature for these plants during the day is 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Although these plants usually produce more in warm weather, they can survive in a temperature range from -50 degrees Celsius to -40 degrees Celsius. You will find them growing wild in zone 7 where they are hardy. You shouldn’t grow this plant until after the frost has passed, because it will die in freezing weather.
Water and Humidity
Make sure to give your cucamelon at least 1 inch of water per week. To prevent mildew, water cucamelon plants at the base so that the tubers receive moisture, rather than the leaves. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation provide the best irrigation. Cucamelon can survive in dry climates, continuing to produce beautiful green leaves and small flowers. Watering your plants regularly will result in larger fruit. There’s no need to water in rainy seasons.
Soil
The key to cucamelon nutrient content is well-drained soil. They grow in poor, nutrient-deficient soil. You can improve your garden beds or containers by adding some potting soil, or even better, rich soil that has been amended with aged manure. This will provide enough nutrients for the tubers to grow underground. The best pH range for growing cucamelons is 6.0 to 6.8.
Fertilizing
There is no need to fertilize cucamelons when you grow them. If you plant cucamelons in rich soil, they can be burned by too much fertilizer. Tubers are delicate and will decay if exposed to too much fertilizer.
Propagation
Cucamelons should be direct-sown outdoors. Don’t plant until it’s no longer going to frost and the temperature at night is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Warmer ground typically results in faster germination.
A good site for planting has rich, loamy soil and full sun. Any nearby structure or plant can become a volunteer trellis, so keep the planting site separated from delicate specimens.
It is not recommended to start these seeds indoors because they may not germinate and because it is difficult to provide the right conditions.
This is because the roots of most cucurbits don’t like to be touched or disturbed. This variety of plant is very delicate and does not respond well to transplanting, especially if the plant has to be hardened off.
From Seed
You can start planting your seeds outdoors after the threat of frost has passed.
Rough up the soil at the planting site by raking or tilling to loosen it up. Water your plant just enough to keep the soil moist, but be sure to drain any excess water.
To plant the seeds, create small hills or mounds of soil at 24-inch intervals. Plant one or two seeds in each mound, making sure to insert them about a quarter to a half an inch deep with the point facing downward. Place a piece of cardboard or newspaper over the seeds, and lightly press down on the paper to ensure the seeds are snug against the soil.
While cloches can help protect plants from cold temperatures, they should be removed on days that are sunny, hot, or humid. This is because cloches can cause wilting on those days.
As it gets warmer outside, make sure to keep the vent open and remove the covers when evening temperatures are at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Seeds will sprout and begin to grow within seven to fourteen days, depending on the temperature of the ground. You can keep the moisture level consistent by checking the soil surface every day. If it hasn’t rained, watering your plants once a week with one inch of water is a good idea.
When choosing a site for your plants, make sure there is a structure for them to climb on. This should be installed when the plants are under four inches in height. Tendrils form early and are eager to latch on.
A support structure for training cucumber vines should be able to hold at least several pounds, even though the fruits are much smaller and lighter than most other cucurbits.
Container growing is also an option.
Choose a pot or container that has drainage holes and is at least 12 inches deep and wide for each plant. The cedar planter from Leisure Season is the perfect size for growing two or three plants.
Fill the container with a mix of one part soil to one part perlite or coarse silica sand, and water it well. The soil should be rich in organic material. Allow the excess moisture to drain off.
With your fingers, make small mounds in the soil that are spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. Press the seeds you are planting about a quarter inch deep into the mound. Cover them and press gently to settle them in.
Adding a trellis or other support early on will help the plants to climb.
Transplanting
If you want to buy seedlings, look for ones that are growing in peat pots.
Excavate a hole in the ground that is the same width and depth as the pot. Gently lower the pot into the hole. Cover the pot with soil until it reaches the base of the seedling, but be careful not to damage it.
Install supports as early on as possible. It is important to water your new plants consistently for the first few weeks. watering them well and allowing the water to settle will help to maintain a moisture level that is ideal for their growth.
Maintenance
Sour gherkins are a type of cucumber that can be grown in most temperate climates, although they may need to be protected from the cold in some areas.
Cut the foliage back to ground level and mulch with four to six inches of shredded bark or straw.
Make sure there is no mulch blocking the way of new sprouts in the spring.
In areas where hard freezes are common, the vines must be cut back to the ground in late fall, just after the first frost. The tubers must then be lifted for storage.
You will need to be careful when digging as they are not as strong as potatoes. To store the tubers, dig them up, rinse them off, and allow them to dry for a few hours in a cool, dry place.
Place a large paper bag or container filled with a few cups of coconut coir in a sunny location. Add a few tubers to the top of the container. Layer more coconut coir and tubers on top of the first layer, continuing until there are none left.
Put the top of the bag over the plant loosely and leave it in a place that is not hot, but is protected, like the garage or basement, until you replant it in the spring.
After the last frost date in your region has passed, you can begin preparing the ground or a container for planting. Remove the tubers from storage and let them warm up to the temperature outside.
Carefully remove the plants from the ground and soak them in warm water for about 30 minutes to rehydrate them. This will also tell them to come out of dormancy.
Dig a hole that is about three inches deep, and place the tuber inside of it so that the crown is no more than one inch below the surface. Then, cover the tuber with soil. Water the plants well and they should start growing within seven to 14 days.
Where to Buy
Currently, only the plant species is available for purchase, as no developed cultivars are commercially available.
Cucamelon seeds can be harvest at the end of each season. They will produce plants that are true to the parent, meaning the new plants will be the same as the plant the seed came from.
It takes about two months for grapes to mature, and vines can grow to be over three meters long in that time. It is important to have sturdy support for the plant, as well as clearing the way for pollinators to reach the blooms.
Harvesting and Storing
Harvesting
To grow cucamelons, plant the seeds in well-draining soil and full sun. Harvest them when they are the size of grapes and firm to the touch. If you wait to pick them until they’re ripe, they may be slightly bitter and have more seeds. Do not eat them when they are purple. At that point, it’s too late to enjoy. To get cucamelons, either use your hands or pick them up from the ground. To prepare the vegetables, wash them lightly in water.
Once the season is over, dig up the cucamelon tubers and store them indoors over winter. Come spring, replant them outside once the soil temperature is warm enough. To dig up the tuber, snip the plant at the base. Choose a small pot and bring your plant inside when the temperature starts to drop. The tuber will produce one plant again in spring. If you’re growing cucamelons in a colder region, it’s a good idea to overwinter the tubers to keep the plant going in future seasons.
Storing
Before you save the cucamelon seeds, sort out the ones you want to eat. Fresh cucamelons should be eaten soon after purchasing and kept in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Grow cucamelons to make olive-sized pickles as well! These will last in an airtight jar for six months. As cucamelons only have a short shelf life, the only long-term storage option available is to grow them yourself. If you put fruit in a freezer or dehydrator, it will go bad and you won’t be able to eat it.
Managing Pests and Disease
Herbivores
There are no known herbivores that will eat the leaves of this plant, except for the occasional test nibble from a rabbit or squirrel.
I’m typing this and there might be a squirrel with different plans, but as it is, we’re good!
Insects
Two common pests that bother miniature cukes are slugs and aphids.
Aphids
I would challenge you to find a growing guide for any common crop that doesn’t mention aphids. Aphids are widely considered to be one of the most important pests of crops worldwide. They are found everywhere and attack many plants without warning, causing them to die.
Fluid loss doesn’t always kill an animal – sometimes it’s the diseases that are transferred by the insect’s piercing mouthparts that cause the most damage.
Slugs
If slugs are present in your garden and are known to eat plants, there is a chance they will also eat mouse melon leaves and fruit.
If the vines are trained on a trellis rather than trailing on the ground, it is less likely that the grapes will rot, but it is still possible.
Disease
I’m sure you were hoping for a similar short list for diseases. There are a few things to be wary of when dealing with sour gherkins.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaic viruses are among the most damaging botanical diseases that can befall a crop.
Mosaic viruses are known to infect a large variety of fruit, vegetables, and ornamental plants. There are over one thousand known plant species that are affected by various types of mosaic viruses.
The Cucumber mosaic virus is a plant disease that is caused by different types of Cucumovirus pathogens. This disease results in leaves with spots, growth distortions and stunted growth, and fruit that is deformed.
Viruses that are similar to these are typically passed from one host to another through the feeding mouthparts of insects, such as aphids.
They pierce tissues to feed from the sap on the interior and infect the plant with the virus at the same time. This can cause widespread damage.
There is no cure for the mosaic virus, and affected plants need to be removed and destroyed. Do not compost or save seeds from pumpkins as they can carry viral pathogens.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a pain. There are many fungal pathogens that can cause plant diseases.
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